The best way to describe it is she feels real strong in the mid to upper RPM, most notably it really seems to pull harder in the upper RPM range, and not having a rev limiter on it I feel like its unlocked a new dimension in the upper RPM's. I initially couldn't tell a dramatic difference (but I had not been riding the bike in a week + since I was waiting for the ECU, so hard to tell), but today I got on the bike again and put maybe 200 miles on her and all in all shes running like a raped ape. Got the ECU back, installed it and took the bike for a spin. So I sent my ECU off to get flashed by 2 Wheel Dyno Works. Otherwise, the reflash will probably be your best bet, but no one will be able to tune it over the phone for a "K&N filter and decatted stock header with a slip-on" with any sort of accuracy. You could install an autotune kit yourself and tune it while you ride. And it's easier to tune with a Power Commander than it is with reflash software. Usually a half of a day on the dyno is what a tuner will bill you for. Whether or not you can live with that and be happy with it for the price you pay is up to you. They will get you closer, but unless a competent tuner can see how your bike reacts to your mods in real time, it's just a guess. They ask you what "mods" you have, they make educated guesses and pull from a database of similar mods. No one can tune your bike over the interweb like that. They are good, but there is nothing "specific" about them. Don't be fooled by the mail-in reflash services. Like any head pipe change, the fueling will be affected and needs to be retuned to account for that. Punching out the cat is a cheap alternative to a full system, but is not the same as getting free power from it. I hope you didn't try to do all that with it on the bike. If you reused those, then you likely are leaking the exhaust which will contribute to the loss of power. The copper header gaskets aren't reusable as they crush down during install. Do you have an exhaust leak? Especially if you took the header off to decat it. Something else happened when you put those things on and removed the stock parts. Michael is also right in that a slip-on shouldn't change much in terms of performance unless it's tuned for that. You hook the header off, punched and scraped out the platinum core, and opened up the header in the 2-into-1 section? That's what B.H was getting to. The catalytic converter on the model is welded into the header. My main question is, will I be just fine going with a mail-in ECU Flash? I'm not trying to squeeze out every last HP, but I do want to get the bike running strong again and benefit from a tune/flash The one shop quoted $900 without even installing a PCV, so it's just not worth it to me. The ECU Flash is around $300-$350įirst off, does that price seem high for dyno tune? I'm in the NW Tennessee area (Ft Campbell). I'd prefer the dyno tune, but both of the local shops have quoted $800-$900, and one of the shops wants to install a PCV and tune it with that on there. So my options are a mail-in ECU Flash to SchnitzRacing (or comparable shop) with a specific list of mods done to bike and they can flash the ECU. It feels like it's lost maybe 20-30% power, the exhaust sounds flat and I know it's because the air/fuel is off. I expected it have to get a tune after we de-catted it, but I wasn't expecting it to feel so different. Recently we de-catted the header and the bike has been running rough. If you answered ‘yes’ to any of the above then do your bike and yourself a favour and get a flash tune.Hello, my 09 ZX-10R has a K&N Race Filter, Slip On Exhaust and it was running fine. Making me grimace instead of smile when I crack the throttle?.Running rough and generally difficult to control no matter how smooth my throttle inputs?.Feeling as if it’s being pulled in the opposite direction under a steady throttle?.Snatchy in its throttle action and more like a light switch instead of feeling nice and linear?.Feeling laggy or stuttering under mid-speed acceleration?.The flipside is an engine that runs too rich, which drinks like a sailor, wreaks of fuel and evidenced by the undesirably dark colour of its sparkplugs. Drawing more air without adjusting the ECU means your engine’s air-fuel mixtures will err towards being lean (too much air and not enough fuel for the engine to burn properly), which typically results in a loss of power and torque, and a very real risk of mid- to long-term engine damage. More air means a bigger bang, which means more power, doesn’t it? Not exactly. Opening the airbox and adding a high-flow air filter and exhaust allows your bike’s engine to draw and better extract more air.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |